This section applies to a large frame motor, but could be adapted to be used with a small frame motor. You will need the following new parts to make the correct connections with the new components:

• New PX200 electric start motor - try your local scooter shop or Scooterworks.
• New 12V 9ah battery (you can get this from any scooter/motorcycle shop).
• If you plan to use the new stator you'll need a new European spec rectifier from a PX200 Electric start (this is very important as they look the same as USA spec rectifiers). I got mine from Beedspeed for about $50.
• A 60 amp automotive/motorcycle relay.
• A new button to activate the starter (connects two contacts when pushed and springs back to unconected).
• About 6' of red 10 gauge red wire.
• About 10' of 18 gauge gray wire.
• About 6' of another color 18 gauge wire.
• About 6" of black 18 gauge wire.
• Some basic electrical connectors (available at most hardware stores).

A quick description of each part and what it is and why it is needed is below:

Battery: The 12V 9ah battery is required because of the extra "cranking" amps for the electric start motor. It is the same size as the standard 12V 5.5ah battery so it will fit in the standard P200E battery tray. Make sure you get it charged by the shop as part of their sale.

 

Regulator: There are two ways to wire the new engine into your old chassis. The easiest is to remove your existing P200 stator and remove the existing stator on the new engine. The flywheel magnets and trigger are the same, but if you use your existing P200 stator all the connections to the frame wiring will be the same, and you'll be able to use your existing regulator/rectifier. If you plan to use the new motor's stator plate, the stator is different than a USA type P200. The main difference is that USA version has separate coils for the DC battery charging circuit and the AC lighting circuit. For this reason it has two wires coming off the stator and going to the rectifier/regulator. The USA rectifier has one input from the stator in order to rectify the AC generated stator power from the charging coils to DC for battery charging, and another input to regulated AC power for the headlight. The newer engine has a single stator wire to the rectifier/regulator which then distributes power out as DC and AC from the single source.

 

Starter Relay: If you try and use a standard 12V switch to allow current to the electric start motor, the heat generated would fry the switch. A relay allows you to use a small, safe 12V switch to switch a large heavy duty switch within the relay and allow a serious current through to the starter motor. I used one from Kragen.

 

Switch: This can be mounted anywhere you feel like. The way the wiring diagram is set up, it is only possible to use the electric start feature when the key has been turned on. It does not have a clutch safety feature, so you may want to mount this in a place where you will have a hand on the clutch while pushing it. This one is from an electric start PX200 and can be bought as a spare part from Europe or through Scooterworks.

 

Connectors: can be bought at most hardware stores. Although they can be crimped onto wires with pliers, there is a proper tool for crimping that makes it very easy and reliable. Often hardware stores will have a kit of five or so different kinds of connectors, and the tool in a single package.